There isn't much difference between oil filters, except that cheaper is usually better & paper filters are better than others. Reusable filters are not good for your engine's longevity. A common misconception is that performance-oriented parts or racing parts are better, but usually these parts give up longevity for speed.
The ways a filter can matter: filtration level, burst strength, bypass pressure, ADBV type/presence (anti-drain-back-valve). These differences are minor. The biggest risk is the bypass pressure, but with proper maintenance, you shouldn't ever be triggering the bypass anyhow (except possibly on very cold starts, where things are fucked anyhow).
- ref.
- Apparently motorcycle bypass pressures are usually lower. ref.
The most important point is that as long as it fits on the bike, it's 99% likely to be just fine. (The biggest danger is using a smaller filter than what is supposed to be there. A larger filter is just fine and may even be better.. maybe.)
For Jake (a 2020 Kawasaki Versys 650)
For the Kawasaki 16097-0004 (& -0008), there are several viable alternatives:
- KAWASAKI 16097-008 replacement filters
- Purolator PL14610 (larger filter) / PL14612
- PureONE are designed for cars first, and should be avoided? (I doubt it really matters as long as you follow a proper maintenance schedule.)
- Fram PH6017A (multiple people have had these fail.. probably outliers, but the only outliers I know about, so it may not be worth it)
Fram **6607 is the car version of this filter. It should not be used for the slight chance of issues due to being the same size and not being designed for motorcycles.- Fram **7317 is apparently just a larger capacity version of that, and is what I've used in multiple passenger vehicles successfully. While this technically makes it unsuited for motorcycle applications due to the bypass pressure likely being higher.. I take care of my things, so it should be fine.
- (People insult Fram a lot for using cardboard in the construction of their filters. This doesn't mean anything except that people assume a machine part should be metal or somesuch. They even made an official response to this: "[...] One common myth is that only metal end disks can adequately seal and have enough strength in the hot oil environment. For this reason, Fram filters are criticized for having cardboard end disks. [...] By using cardboard end disks, Fram filter engineers are able to specify adhesives with excellent strength and sealing properties, and strong adhesion to the disk (intuitively, it is easy to make a strong glue bond with cardboard). Moreover, just as paper media itself is able to withstand the hot oil environment, so too is the end disk designed of fibers engineered to be strong and inert in hot oil. [...]")
HiFlo HF148 (might be too performance-oriented) or HF303 (avoid the 303RC, it is for racing)- KN-303 / KN-303C (verified compatible; overpriced, may be too performance oriented, I've used one before I think)
- KN-303 Alternative oil filters is probably one of the better sources for finding a cheap filter?
- AC-Delco PF2135
- Purolator ML16817 / ML16819
- STP PH7028
- AMSOIL EAOM103-EA (verified compatible)
- WIX 51358-EA (verified compatible)
- NAPA 1365 (verified compatible)